Inset map showing Satsop Hills in context of the Olympic Peninsula. Map by Erwin Raisz in 1941, predating creation of Wynoochee Dam and lake.[2]
The Satsop River, with a 300-square-mile (780 km2) watershed, rises in the hills and flows south to the Chehalis River.[3] Where the river rises, 160 inches (4,100 mm) of annual precipitation qualifies as a temperate rainforest, a term used applied to the Satsop watershed by some publications.[3][4][5] The Wynoochee Oxbow meteorological station on the west end of the hills (47°17′57″N123°39′07″W / 47.29917°N 123.65194°W / 47.29917; -123.65194 (Wynoochee Oxbow)) has both the highest average annual rainfall and the second highest ever recorded in the continental United States.[6][7] The hills lie partly in the Olympic National Forest but not quite in the Olympic National Park. In a 1916 geological survey, hills in the vicinity of Matlock were included with the Black Hills of Thurston County, but may have been describing formations on the East Fork of the Satsop, to the south of the area described above.[a][9]
Forest fires have struck the hills repeatedly. The term "Satsop hills" has been used at least since 1885 when the Morning Oregonian used it to describe the location of forest fires.[b]
In September, 1902, "catastrophic" fires burned across Southwest Washington, including a burn from Elma to Shelton on Puget Sound that destroyed one million board feet of lumber at a mill in the hills above Elma, and uncounted volumes of live trees. On September 12, the county seat, Montesano experienced darkness at noon. A one- to two-mile wide swath of timber was completely burned from Elma to Summit Lake, 13 miles west.[15]
Several fire lookouts were built on peaks in the 20th century as listed above as part of a national effort to control fires.
Fugitive John Tornow
The hills were the hideout of John Tornow, a recluse known by several monikers, such as the "Wild Man of the Wynoochee". Tornow lived in the hills as a fugitive for 19 months between 1912 and 1913 after he was accused of murdering several people including two nephews. Several attempts to find Tornow were initiated, including the formation of posses. The "Mad Daniel Boone" was eventually found in mid-April 1917,[c] and after a brief gun fight, was killed by Chehalis County sheriff's deputy, Giles Quimby. Tornow's body was displayed in Montesano and despite infamy, Quimby refused vaudeville offers to recount the manhunt.[16][17][18][19]
Deer and Roosevelt Elk herds are in the hills, as well as black bear, cougars and game birds including grouse and "the largest population of mountain quail in the state". Elk are probably migratory and move in and out of the Olympic National Park.[d][25]
Sasquatch are reported to live in the hills, with 22 reported sightings as of 2014,[26] including a case discovered by a sheriff's deputy in 1982 and investigated by an Idaho State University biologist in 2004.[27]
Recreation
Satsop River west fork
Recreation in the hills includes canoeing and kayaking, camping, fishing, hunting and hiking.[24][28][29][30][31]Schafer State Park, part of the Washington State Parks system, is on the Satsop River in the low hills at an altitude of 125 feet (38 m);[32] Truman Glick County Park (35 acres (14 ha)) is along the abandoned railroad on the southern side of the hills.[20][33] Hiking destinations noted in printed and online guides include Satsop Lakes (47°25′25″N123°30′37″W / 47.42361°N 123.51028°W / 47.42361; -123.51028),[29] Spoon Creek Falls,[34][35] South Mountain, a 3,044-foot (928 m) "moderately well known winter hiking destination" in Mason County,[36][37] and Vance Creek Bridge, "made famous from millions of Instagram, Facebook, Tumblr and Twitter images" and though on closed private land, was "one of the more popular destinations on the Olympic Peninsula".[21]
^"The north limits [of the Black Hills] would then extend as far as Hoodsport on Hood Canal. The western limits would extend from Hoodsport southwesterly to Matlock and thence to McCleary ... [I]n the vicinity of Matlock they form a low divide between the Puget Sound basin and Grays Harbor. From Matlock the elevation of this divide gradually increases and soon merges into a high rugged spur of the Olympic Mountains..."[8]
^"Heavy fires are raging in Mason County. At Shelton's Point the loggers are fighting it. Opposite that point Willey has had to remove his camp. Men are on watch along the Satsop railroad to prevent the fire from burning the logs, of which there are several hundred thousand feet. On the Satsop hills heavy fires are running, and large numbers of elk have been driven down in consequence." (emphasis added)[14]
^Reports vary on the actual day of Tornow's death. New reports and accounts mention as early as April 14th, while his tombstone reads April 16. See sources listed.
^"Elk in GMU 636 can primarily be found in the upper Wynoochee River valley, the Skokomish River valley, and near the town of Matlock, WA. Although some herds remain non-migratory, we have documented migratory movement from the upper Wynoochee to the Olympic National Parkand the North Fork Skokomish River at Lake Cushman, as well as movement up the South Fork Skokomish river valley into the Olympic National Park."[24]
^"Vance Creek Bridge". HighestBridges.com. Eric Sakowski. 10 December 2009. Archived from the original on 12 September 2016. Retrieved 1 November 2016.
Raisz, Erwin (1989), "Washington State landforms map", in Scott, James William (ed.), Washington, a Centennial Atlas, Bellingham, Washington: Center for Pacific Northwest Studies, Western Washington University, p. 4, ISBN0929008243 – 1941 original hand-penned map, 1965 third revision
Schuster, J. Eric (2005), Geological Map of Washington State, Washington Department of Natural Resources, Division of Geology and Earth Resources (DGER) – via Washington State Geological Survey's Washington State Geology News blog
Smith, Carol J.; Wenger, Mark (May 2001), Salmon And Steelhead Habitat Limiting Factors: Chehalis Basin and Nearby Drainages Water Resource Inventory Areas 22 and 23, Washington State Conservation Commission
