Ÿ Throughout Kathiawar regions of Gujarat many tribes practice appliqué embroidered work. Vankar, Rabari, kadiya, Luhar,Bharvad and Rajput are expert appliqué workers. In Orissa this craft was traditionally practiced by professional tailors know as 'Darjis', but nowadays various other castes have also taken it up. In Rajasthan the main communities practicing this craft are Rajput, Yadav, Acharya, Muslim, Lohar and Soni.^[1]

Ÿ Appliqué is a very ancient techniques and sometimes referred to as one. The only difference between patchwork or piecework is the process of seaming small pieces of fabric in to a larger whole, while appliqué is the process of sewing smaller pieces of fabric onto a larger background fabric. It is a technique of forming a single pattern with different pieces of cloth. Pieces of fabric are applied on top of another for decorative or functional purposes.^[1]

Ÿ Appliqué is ornamental needlework in which pieces of fabric in different shapes and patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern. It is commonly used as decoration, especially on garments. The technique is accomplished either by hand or machine. Appliqué is commonly practised with textiles, but the term may be applied to similar techniques used on different materials. In the context of ceramics, for example, an appliqué is a separate piece of clay added to the primary work, generally for the purpose of decoration.

Ÿ The word “appliqué” is derived from the French verb “appliquer,” meaning “to put on.” It refers to a textile craft in which one piece of fabric is sewn over another for a decorative effect. Appliqué is found in many forms of folk art, from Gujarati Indian tent fabrics to American colonial quilts.

Ÿ  In the context of sewing, an appliqué refers to a needlework technique in which patterns or representational scenes are created by the attachment of smaller pieces of fabric to a larger piece of contrasting colour or texture. It is particularly suitable for work which is to be seen from a distance, such as in banner-making. A famous example of appliqué is the Hastings Embroidery.

Ÿ  Appliquéd cloth is an important art form in Benin, West Africa, particularly in the area around Abomey, where it has been a tradition since the 18th century and the kingdom of Danhomè.

Ÿ  Appliqué is used extensively in quilting. "Dresden Plate" and "Sunbonnet Sue" are two examples of traditional American quilt blocks that are constructed with both patchwork and appliqué. Baltimore album quilts, Broderie perse, Hawaiian quilts, Amish quilts, Egyptian Khayamiya and the ralli quilts of India and Pakistan also use appliqué.

Patchwork or "pieced work" is a form of needlework that involves sewing together pieces of fabric into a larger design. The larger design is usually based on repeating patterns built up with different fabric shapes (which can be different colors). These shapes are carefully measured and cut, basic geometric shapes making them easy to piece together.Ÿ  In Indian stitching blanket using different small pieces of cloth is an art. It is popularly known as Kaudhi in Karnataka. Such blankets are given as gifts to newborn babies in some parts of Karnataka. Lambani tribes wear skirts with such art.^[2]

Ÿ  Reverse appliqué is a needlework technique whereby several layers of cloth are placed on top of each other and shapes are cut out in layers of decreasing size. Some of the most famous reverse appliqués are the worked by (Gujarat) Kathiyavadi women.

Ÿ  A camp in a desert or a hunting expedition in the middle of a forest or a battle field, something that stayed with the kings of the western India irrespective of the situation they were in is luxury. This was the kind of luxury that spoke through exclusivity and fine craftsmanship. Whether it was their serve ware embellished with precious stones, silk robes embroidered with gold zari or their canvas camps worked with finely stitched fabric pieces of colorful silk and cotton. These Camps were hand made by the local women of the community with the technique called Katab, popularly known as appliqué these days.

Ÿ Origin of appliqué can be identified by the style of fabrication, color usage, composition and the kind of forms of patterns used. History of Appliqué work in India can be traced as back as the times when the women f o l k o f   t h e   n a t i v e c o m m u n i t i e s o f n o r t h Gujarat; the Kathis (the land owners), the Mahajans (the businessmen), the Rabaris (the nomad camel herders) and the Muslims produced large canopies, hangings, friezes, bullock-covers (Jhul), tents for ox-carts with human and animal figures stitched on them.

Ÿ  Patchwork is also done in various parts of Pakistan, especially in the Sindh region, where they call it ralli. Pakistani ralli quilts are famous all over the subcontinent even in the west. These quilts are a part of their tradition and are made by women. Now these are gaining international recognition even though they have been making them for thousands of years.

Ÿ  Godadi is a Gujarati word for a blanket. It is a special kind of blanket, embroidered and made by patching various pieces of cloth. Godadi used to be handmade by housewives from Gujarat, especially from the Kutch district. Today in Gujarat, the "Godadi" word is taken as a general term for blanket that is available in the supermarkets and shopping malls. However, people who know the "Godadi" word will always picture embroidered cloth that is used as a blanket.

Ÿ  A bojagi is a traditional Korean wrapping cloth. Bojagi are typically square and can be made from a variety of materials, though silk or ramie are common. Embroidered bojagi are known as subo, while patchwork or scrap bojagi are known as chogak bo. Bojagi have many uses, including as gift wrapping, in weddings, and in Buddhist rites. More recently, they have been recognized as a traditional art form, often featured in museums and inspiring modern reinterpretations.

Ÿ  Some of the old examples of this craft are full of patchwork with cotton and silk, Bandhani and Mashru fabrics, covered with exuberant imaginative forms, both symmetrical and asymmetrical. Quite often the appliqué technique was accompanied by range of stitches adding more value by increase the visual depth and surface richness. Another method known by the name of ‘Reverse appliqué’ in which cut work in the surface fabric forms the shape was also explored. The color palette of appliqué artists of Gujarat varies from warm to cool, white on white, bright and festive to natural and neutral tones today.

Ÿ  The Rabari are a population of semi-nomadic camel herders residing throughout Gujarat, Rajasthan, Haryana and the Punjab. Modern times have seen members of the Rabari community integrate into society through education, commerce and agrticulture.

Ÿ  However, there remains a small percentage of Rabaris who continue to live semi-nomadically, carrying on the tradition of their ancestors. It is the women of the Rabari community, particularly in Gujarat's Kutch region, who are most famed for their skills in the hereditary art. Rabari applique often goes hand in hand with embroidery and patchwork, appearing extensively on dowry items and domestic items such as quilts. Camels and scenes of the desert and countryside inspire vivid multi-coloured motifs.

Ÿ  These objects include decorative bags, pillows and sitting mats.Appliqué played a part in religious textiles as well. It has long been used to make decorative clothing, because most clothing is used until it is worn out and then again reused to create beautiful patterns out of the worn fabric.

Ÿ  This serves both economic and decorative purposes. Small pieces of fabric are cut and joined side by side to make a large piece of fabric or for repairing a damaged fabric. The craft seems to have been prevalent all over India. “ In all periods there are to be found in pieced quilts both unique and conventional designs; within the framework of the latter each maker had full liberty in terms of colors, arrangements, sizes of the blocks and her own variations.

Ÿ  Applique in Gujarat is similar to katab patchwork from Kathiawar, a peninsula in the Saurashtra region near the Gulf of Kutch and Arabian Sea in Gujarat. The base fabric is medium weighted and primarily white in colour. Patchwork motifs of various sizes, shapes and colours are arranged in a manner that produces captivating patterns.

Ÿ  In the village of sourastra , Western India, there are several migrant communities scattered across the city; many of these once considered to be untouchables under the Hindu ritual ranking. Traditionally, women from this community practised the craft of applique work , often making domestic household decorations such as quilts, torans (door hangings) and bed covers, from recycling waste fabrics from local tailors and garment manufacturers.

Ÿ  Patchwork and appliqué are done in many different geographical regions of India with each area having its own particular local aesthetic. The main centers where the crafts are practiced are Gujarat ,Rajasthan, Bihar, Himachal Pradesh, Utar Pradesh, Karnataka, Orissa, Each of these regions used their distinct styles and colour palettes to create decorative designs. These old patterns can be found in museums; there are a few pieces that are still remaining with the craftspeople. They still use traditional motifs and unique colour schemes when making products for their own use.^[2]

Ÿ  Throughout Kathiawar regions of Gujarat many tribes   practice  appliqué e m b r o i d e r e d w o r k . Vankar, Bharvad, Rabri, and Harijan are expert appliqué workers. In Orissa this craft was traditionally practiced by professional tailors know as ‘Darjis’, but nowadays various other castes have a l s o t a k e n i t u p . I n R a j a s t h a n t h e m a i n communities practicing this craft are Rajput, Yadav, Acharya, Muslim, Lohar and Soni.