Draft:John Young

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John Young (1934–1998) was an American restaurateur, street vendor, and entrepreneur based in Buffalo, New York. He operated the chicken-wing restaurant Wings ’n Things on Buffalo’s East Side during the 1960s, where he sold whole, breaded chicken wings in a sweet, tomato-based “mumbo sauce.” Young is widely cited by food historians and journalists as one of the earliest pioneers of Buffalo-style chicken wings and a key figure in the dish’s disputed origin story.

Early life

John Young was born in 1934 in Stockton, Alabama, one of the thirteen children. He grew in a rural area and worked on a riverboat. As a young man, he moved with his family to Buffalo, New York during the Great Migration, when many African Americans moved from the south to escape Jim Crow Racism and for better economic opportunities. In particular, Young found employment at Bethlehem Steel and saved his money to start a store specializing in selling Blair Products. He married and had three children.[1]

Wings ’n Things and mumbo wings

In the early 1960s, Young opened a small storefront at Jefferson Avenue and Carlton Street in Buffalo. He soon began focusing exclusively on soul food. One day, Sam Anderson, a boxer who was on tour stopped by and encouraged Young to specialize in chicken wings, relaying the success of a restaurant in Washington, DC. Young named his business Wings ’n Things, after the Washington DC business.[2]

Young’s signature dish consisted of whole, breaded chicken wings coated in a tangy, reddish “mumbo sauce,” a style influenced by African-American culinary traditions and Washington, D.C. takeout culture. The sauce was tomato-based and John began to add fruit after a trip to Jamaica.[3] The restaurant became a popular East Side gathering place and attracted local residents, musicians, and athletes. Young's restaurant is mentioned in Rick James' book Moonglow, as well as many articles in Buffalo newspapers.

Food historians have debated and said his shop was the earliest known restaurant in Buffalo to specialize in chicken wings, including Calvin Trillin's essay from the New Yorker.[4]

Relationship to the Anchor Bar narrative

Young’s story is often compared and contrasted with the more widely publicized story of the Anchor Bar, where Teressa and Frank Bellissimo are credited with popularizing the "Buffalo style" of chicken wings in 1964. While the Anchor Bar version was unbreaded wings tossed in a vinegar–cayenne hot sauce, Young’s “mumbo wings” were whole, breaded wings coated in a sweet, tomato-based sauce. However, the earliest accounts of the Anchor wings are described as barbecued, adding further discepancies.[5]

The 2 locations and stories are also representative of divisions within the City of Buffalo: the Young story representing the East Side and African American experience while the Anchor representing Main Street and white business owners. The debate has raised questions about intellectual property, cultural appropriation, and legacy.

[6]

Later life and death

Amid racial unrest and economic changes on Buffalo’s East Side in 1967, Young closed Wings ’n Things and moved with his family to Decatur, Illinois, where he continued to operate food businesses. He ran a series of food trucks and served working class people in nearby factories during their lunch breaks. He eventually returned to Buffalo in the 1980s and ran additional wing and soul-food restaurants at several locations. Other family members also had soul food restaurants, including his brother, Paul Young. John Young died in 1998.[7]

Recognition and reassessment

For decades, popular histories of Buffalo wings focused largely on the Anchor Bar story. More recently, food historians have reevaluated the story. Visit Buffalo Niagara recently included Young in their Chicken Wing guide to the City of Buffalo.[8]

He has been profiled by national media including the History Channel series The Food That Built America, Vice’s Munchies documentary, the USA Today Network, and multiple Buffalo media outlets.[9]

Young was inducted into the National Buffalo Wing Festival’s “Hall of Flame” for his early influence on the wing tradition in 2013 with the award being accepted by his daughter, Lina.[10]

Media coverage

Young’s story appeared as early as a 1980 article by Calvin Trillin in The New Yorker, which brought national attention to his claim as an early wing innovator.

In the 2010s and 2020s, Young was featured in:

  • The History Channel’s The Food That Built America episode covering the origins of Buffalo wings[11]
  • Vice Munchies documentary segments on Black East Side food culture[12]
  • USA Today Network and Black Enterprise articles recounting his contributions[13]
  • Buffalo television features revisiting his place in local food history[14]

Mural and public commemoration

In 2022, a public mural honoring Young—depicting him as the “King of Wings”—was installed near the site of the original Wings ’n Things restaurant at Jefferson Avenue and Carlton Street, in a vacant lot. The mural is a replica of a mural that once stood in the interior of Young's restaurant, which is no longer extant. The project involved 4 Buffalo artists and local cultural organizations and was intended to recognize Young’s importance to the history of Buffalo wings and to African-American entrepreneurship on the East Side. It is available for all to see.[15]

John Young’s Original Mumbo Sauce

In 2024, Young’s family revived his signature sauce under the brand John Young’s Original, using his original mumbo-sauce recipe. The product is produced in Western New York and available at more than 20 stores and online.[16]

Young’s story has been incorporated into local tourism in Buffalo. A local bicycle tour company developed a “Wing Ride” that combines telling stories about chicken wings, sampling chicken wings, and seeing the city's history by bike. John's daughter typically joins the tour, preparing her dad's famous recipe.[17]

Legacy

Historians and journalists are beginning to give Young his due respect. Ongoing efforts—including documentaries, murals, tours, and the John Young’s Original sauce brand—continue to promote a fuller understanding of Young’s contributions and ensure that his version of Buffalo wing history remains part of the public record.

See also

References

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